A local's guide to Argentina

Besides heading three panaderías – his starter dough is the yeasty foundation to many a Buenos Aires restaurant’s bread basket – sourdough specialist Francisco Seubert of Atelier Fuerza also loves a collaboration. His recent projects include opening spin-offs at F4 Esquina steakhouse and Mercat Villa Crespo, and co-founding Cardumen magazine. Plus, December 2021 will see the publication of his first book, El pan de Fran.

This interview is part of The World Made Local, a global collaboration between the seven international editions of Condé Nast Traveller in which 100 people in 100 countries tell us why their home turf should be your next destination.

What is the best thing about the Buenos Aires food scene right now?

My generation is forging a gastronomic culture of really respecting local raw ingredients so as to create an Argentine identity. At Atelier Fuerza, that means choosing the best organic, stone-ground flours and giving traditional bakeries renewed value. There are also hyper-specialisations: take Donnet’s fungi-forward menu and Orei ramen bar, a fantastic new opening.

What’s your signature baked good?

The baking here is inspired by Europe, and includes Iberian churros and the English white loaves used for our sandwiches de miga. I’m obsessed with medialunas, Argentina’s answer to Viennese puff-pastry crescents. Our version undergoes a three-day yeast-and-sourdough-hybrid fermentation method, and is lightly lacquered with orange syrup. I never tire of making or eating medialunas.

Where are the best places to eat in the city?

For an electrifying meal, I order oyster mushrooms in chestnut cream and demi-glace sweetbreads at Anafe in Colegiales. Chef Julio Martín Báez at Villa Crespo’s Julia Restaurante creates a fine-dining experience but without the endless courses, and I can easily while away an afternoon feasting on small plates such as porchetta at Naranjo Bar in Chacarita. Belgrano’s Barrio Chino is home to lots of Asian restaurants: I love the kimchi ramen at Nobiru Izakaya.

The best way to see Buenos Aires?

Book a free bike and cycle the lane on calles Gorriti and Superí from south to north. The route captures plenty of barrio eclecticism through Palermo, Colegiales, and Coghlan before ending at leafy Parque Saavedra.

Any other addresses to know?

I collect vintage teapots and metal milk jugs and like to scout the weekend flea market at Parque Centenario, plus there’s a great selection at the indoor Mercado de Pulgas. Mornings are chilly when I start baking, so I wear a fair-trade baby-alpaca sweater from Guacha Textiles. Buenos Aires has a fantastic craft-beer scene and pioneering bar Strange Brewing makes a refreshing saison. I go here early in the evening before heading to the terrace at La Confitería cultural centre to catch short films by local directors.

Where do you head to get out of the capital?

I go back to Cañuelas, the rural pampas town in Buenos Aires Province where I was born, for an abundant family asado [barbecue]. It’s also home to La Dolfina polo club, led by 10-goal-handicap player Adolfo Cambiaso. A must-visit is Pueblo Escondido for its outstanding charcuterie and cheese. Cañuelas also hosts an annual dulce de leche festival, which includes crowning the Queen of Caramel. Sometimes I head to Mendoza to recharge my batteries in the mountains, and the Ongamira valley in north-west Córdoba is a brilliant natural wonder.