The 23 Best Places to Go in Spain and Portugal in 2023
The start of a new year offers an opportunity to draw up lists of resolutions, and in our case, that means deciding which destinations around the world we want to explore. As the editors of Condé Nast Traveller Spain, we have collectively created another list: 23 places that we want to visit, and revisit, that are close to home – in Spain and Portugal too.
At the same time, the editors of all of the Condé Nast Traveller editions around the world have been discussing, debating, and defending their choices in order to create a collective list of the top 23 places to visit around the world in 2023. We are happy that two of our picks – a Spanish province and a town in the Alentejo region of Portugal – made the global list. We also hope the double honour for these two destinations will serve as a recognition of their new cultural, gastronomic, and hospitality offerings as well as encourage readers to go visit and see them in person.
Before you read further, you might want to grab a pen and a calendar as you begin to plan a year full of travel. And don’t forget to visit our global list of international destinations to visit next year – the best places to travel in 2023, vetted by Condé Nast Traveller editors, plus ideas for places to travel in the UK, places to go in the USA and destinations to book in India.
Nerea GarroTenerife, Canary Islands
“In whatever month you visit Tenerife, it is always warm during the day and chilly at night,” our contributor Raque Sanchez wrote in a love letter to the island that expressed sentiments we agree with 100 per cent. The largest of the Canary Islands is a good place to visit, in any and every season. While you are there you can take a dip in the Atlantic, gaze at the stars from the summit of Mount Teide (with an elevation of 12,198 feet, it’s the highest point in Spain), explore little towns, and wander along the island’s many beaches, some rocky and some sandy. Tenerife’s varied landscape includes forests, deserts, valleys, and ravines and the Anaga Rural Park is a highlight. There are also two UNESCO World Heritage sites: the Teide National Park and the city of San Cristóbal de La Laguna.
An added plus is that the island has a remarkably rich and diverse choice of hotels. Among the award-winning properties are the Hotel Botánico & The Oriental Spa Garden, Baobab Suites, The Ritz-Carlton Abama, H10 Atlantic Sunset, Gran Meliá Palacio de Isora, and Bahía del Duque. On the island’s north coast, BeTenerife offers an excellent selection of private villas for two or four guests.
It is also one of the best destinations in Europe for cycling enthusiasts, has long been a pioneer in sustainability (it has been recognised as a Biosphere Sustainable Destination), and is decidedly LGBTQ+ friendly, with an annual Culture & Business Pride festival in June. Looking towards the future, the island’s Artificial Intelligence Tourism Master Plan is the first of its kind to be approved in Spain, and Tenerife aspires to become an Intelligent Tourism Destination – a distinction promoted by Spain’s tourism ministry to recognise destinations with innovative technological infrastructure that have demonstrated their commitments to sustainability, accessibility, and improving the quality of life of residents.
Tenerife also sparkles with Michelin stars. Among the restaurants enjoying that distinction are M.B and Kabuki (at The Ritz-Carlton, Abama), Nub, and El Rincón de Juan Carlos. Other highlights of the island’s dining scene include Kensei (at the Bahía del Duque hotel), Kiki, San Hô, and Melvin by Martín Berasategui, at the Terrazas de Abama Suites, where chef Sergio Fuentes helms the kitchen. You’ll also want to visit some of the island’s traditional beach bars including Punta de Hidalgo’s La Cofradía, known for its limpets and shrimp; Chiringuito Pirata, on La Tejita beach, where octopus is the signature dish; and Bollullo, on the beach of the same name, where you’ll want order the cuttlefish. Clara Laguna
Alamy Stock PhotoZamora, Castilla y León
Even many Spaniards are unaware of one of Zamora’s claims to fame: it is the European city with the greatest number of Romanesque buildings. Its sights in that style include 24 churches, a cathedral, a castle, a bridge, two palaces, nine manor houses, and the defensive walls that encircle the city. It is not surprising that the city is seen as a likely contender to be recognised by UNESCO in 2023. The city’s proximity to Madrid – less than an hour on the new high-speed AVE train – makes it an even more appealing and convenient destination.
Zamora offers more, however, than just its Romanesque buildings. It also has an enormous legacy of modernista structures from the late 19th and early 20th centuries, the Duero River winds its way through the heart of the city and shapes the surrounding landscape, and the Lagunas de Villafáfila are a birdwatcher’s delight, home to a dazzling variety of migratory species. It’s just one of many sights near the city. Lake Sanabria is the largest glacial lake in Europe, and a few miles away Puebla de Sanabria is considered one of the most beautiful villages in Spain. Farther south, the Sierra de la Culebra has the highest wolf population in Western Europe, although last summer’s wildfires devastated much of the area. Heading east, you will come across Toro, a beautiful wine capital where the LVMH group boasts its own winery, the excellent Numantia.
Nearby, in the heart of the vast plain known as the Tierra de Campos, the restaurant Lera has become famous as a temple to the pleasures of game and country cuisine. It draws celebrated chefs like Dabiz Muñoz who fill the tables at the restaurant in Castroverde de Campos, a small town in one of the quietest corners of Spain.
Finally, to the south of Zamora, the Arribes del Duero provide some drama. The imposing cliffs and the fjords below them act as a natural border with Portugal in an area that has attracted acclaimed international winemakers like Charlotte Allen from England, Thyge Jensen of Denmark and José Manuel Beneitez, originally from Madrid. Olive and citrus trees help to turn this corner of the region into a Mediterranean paradise. New gastronomic and hotel projects point toward the area becoming a little Tuscany in Zamora, even if, for now, few people in Spain or beyond have heard of it. David Moralejo
Alamy Stock PhotoSierra Calderona, Valencia
Located between the provinces of Castellón and Valencia, the Parque Natural de la Sierra Calderona is a protected natural park that includes almost 70 square miles of pine and strawberry tree forests, ravines, sweeping vistas, and dramatic peaks. The summit of Montemayor, at an elevation of 3,320 feet, is the highest point in the park.
While the residents of Valencia know about this treasure – it is located just 12 miles from the province’s capital – it largely remains a secret in the rest of Spain. That means that visitors can still find tranquility and even a little bit of mystery alongside the park’s beauty and splendour.
A number of different civilisations and people have settled in the Sierra Calderona over the millennia. A trek through the range offers a chance not only to see all its natural wonders, but it is also a walk through history with stops at the 11th-century Castillo de Serra, built during the Arab conquest of the region, and the Iberian hilltop fort Puntal dels Llops, which dates from the fifth century BCE.
Travellers interested in hiking and birdwatching will find a little paradise with several different routes to choose from: Garbi, which leads to the sea; the four-mile Olocau route, which starts in the village of the same name; the longer but largely flat 5.2-mile Portaceli trail, the more challenging 7.8-mile Tristán trail, and, for those who are more experienced and ambitious, the rewarding 23-mile Senda dels Cartoixos route that connects two historic Carthusian monasteries. There are also many other trails maintained by local governments and other organizations, like the Vía Verde de Ojos Negros, a popular cycling route that connects the town of Teruel and the Mediterranean.
The most visited peak in the range is Garbí, with a vista that offers spectacular views and is easily accessible. Other highlights in the area are the Serra Castle, the Portacoeli Charterhouse (a Carthusian monastery), the Santo Espíritu monastery, the Mola de Segart (a dramatic mesa), and the Font del Compte (a reservoir originally built by the Romans).
The Sierra Calderona is a natural wonder that has been passed down through the generations and from one culture to the next. If you visit, please leave it as beautiful as you found it. María Casbas
AlamyBriones, La Rioja
The walled town with 700 residents is possibly the prettiest town in the Rioja. Its secret is its cobblestone streets, palecetes (“small palaces”), and churches. Located in the la Sierra de la Demanda and near many of Rioja’s best wineries, you’ll find vines growing in many of the postcard views here.
You can start your wine itinerary right in town at the Vivanco Museum of Wine Culture, considered to be one of the best in the world. Displays focus on wine’s role in Western civilisation and the museum extends over 43,000 square feet, including six gallery spaces (five hosting the permanent collection and the sixth dedicated to temporary ones). The museum’s Garden of Bacchus includes 220 different varieties of wine grapes from around the world. A stroll through it offers a unique masterclass.
A highlight of the year in Briones is its unusual Medieval Days in mid-June, specifically 17 and 18 June 2023. Declared a Festival of National Tourist Interest in 2012, the event celebrates a 1379 treaty between the kings of Castille and Navarra. Almost the entire town turns out in costume for a parade and other events when Briones turns the clock back more than six centuries. The accommodations are far from medieval, however, at the new and charming
Santa María de Briones, a 16-room boutique hotel located in a restored mansion. Don’t leave without seeing the town’s old pharmacy, now located at the Ermita del Cristo church. After its former owner left the pharmacy to the church in his will, the church chose to move the beautiful 19th-century cabinets, apothecary jars, and other items and reconstruct the pharmacy on church property where visitors can admire it. Cynthia Martín.
Alamy Stock PhotoMelides, Portugal
Suddenly everyone is talking about Melides. That may cause some wistfulness on the part of some, aware that the secret is now out, but that’s how it goes. The little town on Portugal’s Alentejo coast, located a half-hour from already popular Comporta, is now the name on everyone’s lips.
It all makes sense. There’s no shortage of reasons to fall in love with Melides beginning with the nearby Galé beach, where a red stone cliff of five-million-year-old fossils creates a dramatic backdrop to a long, sweeping stretch of sand. The landscape here still feels wild, something that it is (if we are honest about it) increasingly hard to find in Comporta though that town still has its undeniable charms. Alongside with its natural beauty, the beach has the plus of never feeling crowded. It is part of a 30-mile or so stretch of sand the runs from the village of Troia to nearby Sines. The waters are rough and cold, deterring all but the hardiest swimmers, but this stretch has another plus of fewer mosquitoes (which tend to plague the beaches that sit alongside rice fields in Comporta and elsewhere).
Another reason to visit will be added to the list in 2023. The designer Christian Louboutin, who helped to put this part of Portugal on the map with a 2013 campaign shot in the photogenic port of Carrasqueira, will open the boutique Hotel Vermelho. “Vermelho” is red in Portuguese, a nod to the trademark colour of the soles of Louboutin’s shoes. It’s a much-anticipated addition of big-city style to a town with fewer than 2,000 residents.
The village’s charm comes from its typical Alentejo architecture, set amid a green and wooded landscape in the foothills of the Serra da Grândola. Olive, oak, and cork trees frame the views from the Vermelho mansion of the surrounding countryside. Louboutin’s vision echoes a phrase uttered by Tancredi in The Leopard by Lampedusa: “Everything must change for everything to remain the same.” The designer hopes only to breathe new life into place while preserving its peaceful atmosphere.
Louboutin is not alone and the Hotel Vermelho will join Pa.te.os, an impressive new hotel and architectural beauty designed by Manuel Aires Mateus. Made up of a number of separate villas, the hotel is reimagining luxury in the middle of the countryside near Melides. At the same time, Melides Art, an artists’ residence and contemporary art space, has also been drawn to this corner of Portugal with its bohemian air, discreet charms (many of the admittedly bourgeois), and a pervasive sense of a calm. We hope the quiet survives Melides’s new popularity. David Moralejo
AlamyMálaga, Andalucía
Recently it feels like everyone in Spain, and a good number of people beyond Spain too, has decided to move to Málaga. If you are dubious, raise the topic at any dinner party in Madrid and you’ll soon learn about someone who has recently packed up and gone to the Costa del Sol or, at least, you’ll meet someone who is dreaming of it.
The phenomenon has not happened overnight, though the rise of digital nomads and remote work have definitely contributed to it. If you can work from anywhere, why not choose a place where the climate is pleasant, you’ll receive a warm welcome, and the culinary offerings are excellent from the first bite.
If you aren’t quite ready to move to Málaga, you can at least visit, or revisit, in 2023. In fact judging from the results of the most recent Readers Choice Awards from Condé Nast Traveller, we expect the city is already included in many travellers’ plans. With its ideal size, neither too small nor too intimidating; nearly 3,000 hours of sunshine each year; the ease of getting there from other parts of Spain and Europe; its rich cultural offerings, and the pleasant setting it’s easy to understand the smiles on the faces of both the tourists and locals strolling along Calle Larios (the pedestrianised shopping street), the inviting Pasaje de Chinitas, and the waterfront Palmeral de las Sorpresas.
Recent hotel openings give travellers a varied choice of options. In 2021, notable hotel additions included Only You Málaga and Soho Boutique Equitativa; in 2022, H10 Croma Málaga joined them. And more projects are in the works. The best known of them is an enormous development planned for alongside the port of Málaga while others that we are watching eagerly – and which should open or reopen soon – are the Cortijo La Reina (following a complete renovation and upgrade of the existing hotel), Le Privé, and a five-star hotel planned for the Jewish Quarter that will be managed by Marugal, who also run the Palacio Solecio.
The list of additions to the gastronomic scene will entice travellers who live to eat. At the beginning of 2022, chef Álvaro Saura and entrepreneur Zuzana Salamon opened Tasca Láska while Dani Carnero, who learned his craft from chefs including Ferran Adriá and Martín Berasategui, opened his third project in Málaga, La Cosmo (following La Cosmopolita and Kaleja). Asturian chef Marcos Granda, who already has two restaurants in Marbella, Nintai and Skina, will land in Málaga in 2023, with In-Formal, a new culinary concept designed for the reimagined Gourmet Experience in the department store El Corte Inglés.
Málaga has also been preparing for a milestone year related to one of its most famous native sons, Pablo Picasso, with 2023 the 50th anniversary of his death. During what has been named the Year of Picasso, there will 42 exhibits covering the painter’s work around the world, including Málaga, where he was born.
The Museo Casa Natal Picasso will host several exhibits: Bernardí Roig: El último rostro y La Afonía del Minotauro (“Bernardí Roig: The Last Portrait and the Silence of the Minotaur”) until 28 May 2023, Las Edades de Pablo (“The Ages of Pablo”) from 21 June to 1 October 2023, and La Imagen de Picasso (“The Image of Picasso”) from October 18 to March 3, 2024. The Museo Picasso Malaga will host Picasso: Materia Y Cuerpo (“Picasso: Media and Bodies”) from 9 May to 10 September 10 2023, and El Eco de Picasso (“The Echo of Picasso”) focused on the master’s artistic legacy. Other institutions in Málaga are organising events, from talks to musical performances, marking the milestone. Expect more announcements in the months ahead.
In other news, the Teatro Soho CaixaBank, Antonio Banderas’s personal project in his city, is staging a production of Godspell, produced by Banderas himself and Emilio Aragón. María Casbas
GettyCampo de Criptana, Ciudad Real
In a corner of La Mancha, travellers will come upon one of the most beautiful scenes in Spain. The windmills of Campo de Criptana inspired Cervantes, drove Don Quixote crazy, and charm everyone who visits this part of Castilla-La Mancha.
Campo de Criptana, Mota del Cuervo, and Consuegra have a remarkable concentration of some of the most picturesque and best-preserved windmills in the region. The three towns also have other charms that justify at least a weekend exploring them. Of the three, Campo de Criptana, in the province of Ciudad Real, is said to have been the specific inspiration for the plain of windmills in Cervantes’s book, which its famous protagonist believes are giants as he heads into combat against them.
In addition to the windmills (some of which are open to the public), the most important monuments in the town date from around the 16th century and include the Royal Granary, the Convent of the Barefoot Carmelites, and ten hermitages – the most impressive of them is the one dedicated to the Virgen de la Paz, or Virgin of Peace. A more recent addition, the Church of the Assumption of Our Lady, dates from 1958 and stands on the site of an earlier 16th-century during destroyed in the Spanish Civil War. The eastern part of town, known as the Albaicín, was originally settled by Moorish refugees from Granada after that city was conquered by Christians. Many houses still have original Mudejar details like tiles and wrought-iron grilles. Cynthia Martín
Andrey Khrobostov / Alamy Stock PhotoComillas, Cantabria
Comillas is one of those places that is so beautiful exactly how it is today that you hesitate to share its name, for fear that word will get out. For now, fortunately, Comillas remains a traditional vacation town of northern Spain. There are more houses than hotels, and more people who are here for the season than for a week. Unlike some other similar coastal summer towns, Comillas also has a number of historic sites of interest: the buildings of the Comillas Pontifical University (the university moved to Madrid, though the buildings remain), the Sobrellano Palace (once owned by the Marquis of Comillas), the Baroque church of San Cristobal, and the archaeological site, the Cuevas de la Meaza.
And then that is also the work of architect Anton Gaudí who gave the city one of its most famous landmarks, El Capricho. This playful and elaborate house is one of Gaudí’s few works outside of Catalonia, but it isn’t the only work of modernista architecture here. In 1881, the entrance to the town’s cemetery and some of its exterior walls were redesigned by Luis Domènech i Montaner, another prominent figure in Catalonia’s modernista architectural circles He was also responsible for the town’s Parque Güell and the Fountain of the Tres Caños, or “three spouts.” A work of modernista sculpture from 1895 can also be found at the cemetery, the Ángel Exterminador by Josep Limona.
There are also English-style houses from the last turn-of-the-century, like the home of the Duque de Almodóvar del Río and the so-called Casas Indianas, the houses of locals who had made their fortunes in the Americas. (These houses will typically have at least one palm tree planted nearby, making them easier to spot.) The town has even appeared in the Guinness World Records as the world’s smallest whaling port (it was active into the 18th century). Beachgoers can choose from the city beach and ones in the nearby Parque Natural de Oyambre; shoppers will want to scour the antiques markets; and gourmets can count on eating well. David Moralejo.
iStockJerez de la Frontera, Andalucía
Think of the cliches of southern Spain, and the words “wine,” “flamenco,” “horses,” and “cellars” may come to mind. Instead of running from them, Jerez de la Frontera makes the wise choice of embracing them. Bring it on, the city says, as it welcomes visitors – with the table set and wine poured. There’s no need to hurry, however. You’ll find time for everything in Jerez. In this city that embraces tradition, you’ll want to start your adventure on the right foot, with a toast.
Whether you are on your first or 10th visit to Jerez, strolling aimlessly through the historic centre is the best way to ease into this city. With each step, you’ll feel yourself become part of the place as it reveals its character around every corner and a history written by Phoenicians, Romans, Muslims, and Christians unfolds before you. Palaces and lavish city houses alternate with religious buildings like the famous cathedral and a late 12th-century mosque inside the city’s fortified Alcazar, home to a number of historic buildings. If it takes your breath away, inhale and then follow the smell of wine in the air.
Jerez is a leading destination for wine tourism in both Spain and the world generally thanks to its abundance of wineries, many of them belonging to the Jerez-Xérèz-Sherry denominaciones de origen or DO (the Spanish version of the French AOC for its wine regions). Among the acclaimed wineries are Tío Pepe-González Byass, Sandeman, Emilio Lustau, and Williams & Humbert. Oenophiles will also want to stop at tabancos, classic tavernas that are the perfect places to sample local products; a museum celebrating wine; and wine stores.
Some people might say that sherry is trending right now, but we think that’s not the right way to understand the situation. Sherry is a timeless classic that just happens to be enjoying a moment of positive attention. Jerez does offer more to visitors than its namesake wine. The Horse Fair, the Flamenco Festival, the Harvest Festival, and the Motorcycle Grand Prix all offer opportunities to dive into an aspect of local culture and celebrate with the city’s residents (who are excellent at celebrating). Whether your visit coincides with a festival or not, the city’s two Michelin-starred restaurants provide a glimpse of a lively gastronomic scene: Lú, Cocina y Alma is led by chef Juanlu Fernández and Mantúa by chef Israel Ramos.
Another reason to visit Jerez de la Frontera will be inaugurated in 2023: the Museo de Lola Flores. The museum to the outspoken and beloved actor and singer will open on the 100th anniversary of her birth in Jerez. María Casbas
iStockLa Coruña, Galicia
This little corner of Europe, tucked above Portugal in the northeastern corner of Spain, was long described as “the end of the world.” Recently, however, it is starting to feel closer to being at the centre of the stage. One of the changes is noticeable even after a short stroll: the streets are increasingly filled with people of different nationalities, speaking different languages, and wearing different clothes. Ask one of them why they are in La Coruña, and the likely answer is “to work.” Ask where they work and what you will get in reply is likely a gesture towards the west, and the neighbouring town of Arteixo, where Inditex is headquartered. (Even if you don’t recognise Inditex as the name of an enormous multinational clothing company, you likely know some of its brands, including Zara, Bershka, and Massimo Dutti.)
The Galician city’s increasingly cosmopolitan atmosphere is apparent not only when wandering its streets but also exploring the cultural offerings of its museums and art galleries.
One of the most important cultural initiatives has an Inditex connection via Marta Ortega Pérez, who is both the new president of Inditex and the president of a foundation that bears her initials. The MOP Foundation is structured around three pillars: La Coruña, photography, and fashion. Last year it hosted the successful exhibition Peter Lindbergh: Untold Stories seen by 110,000 visitors.
“After that success, it was clear that we had to organise another exhibition,” Leticia Castromil, exhibition coordinator for the MOP Foundation says. “We couldn’t stop there.” At the end of November 2022, Steven Meisel 1993 A Year in Photographs opened its doors and the free exhibition will be up until 1 May 2023. The show is at a building on the city’s harbour, the Muelle de la Batería. Naomi Campbell, Irina Shayk, and Christy Turlington were among the fashion stars who attended the opening.
“The exhibition space is a former industrial building next to the port. It’s located in an area near the city centre but which had been closed to the public. Thanks to this initiative, part of another dock is now accessible again and people can walk around it,” Castromil adds.
In addition to the Meisel exhibition, 2023 includes a milestone for a one-time resident of La Coruña. Pablo Picasso, who lived in the city between ages 9 and 13, died 50 years ago. “Continue doing what you are doing and never doubt that you will achieve glory and a brilliant future,” a review published in La Voz de Galicia said after seeing an exhibition by a precocious Picasso when he was only 13 years old.
During the year-long Picasso Celebración 1973-2023 a series of events and activities will take place around the world. In the region where the young genius spent four formative years, the centre of the celebration is the Casa Museo Picasso. The Museo de Belas Artes da Coruña will host Picasso, Blanco en el Recuerdo Azul (“Picasso, White in the Blue Memory”) from 24 March to 23 June 2023. The Fundación Luis Seoane will organise a show on the women who shaped Picasso’s life and the Escuela de Arte y Superior de Diseño Pablo Picasso is also planning events to mark the anniversary.
Alongside the rich cultural scene, there is an impressive gastronomic one as well, led by Árbore da Veira, Omakase, Bido, la Taberna de Miga, NaDo, Terreo, and Salitre. You’ll find specialty coffee shops, wine bars, cocktail lounges, pottery workshops, bookstores, and design stores as you make your way about the city. All this, with the Atlantic in the background serving as a reminder that while this was once the end of the world, today it is a place where new adventures begin. María Casba
Przemysław NiecieckiCosta da Prata, Portugal
Three Portuguese destinations are on this year’s list, and all three overlook the sea. Or, more accurately, the ocean. One of the Atlantic’s gifts to Portugal is some of the most beautiful stretches of coast in the world including the Costa da Prata. The Algarve may be more famous, Comporta and Melides may be more “cool,” and Cascais and Estoril have nostalgic charms, but the Costa da Prata has its own, undeniable appeals.
Even the name Costa da Prata isn’t that common, yet, but some of the towns along it – Ericeira, Nazaré, Peniche, and Aveiro are better known, especially among surfers. We are stretching the Costa a little farther south than some would define it by including Ericeira, which is about 45 minutes north of Lisbon. For many it starts instead at Playa Santa Cruz, in Torres Vedras. That town, which is roughly 20 miles north of Ericeira, is the home of a hotel that is a popular seaside favourite of surfers: Noah Surf House. The northern end of the coast is often defined as Esmoriz, a half-hour south of Porto by car.
There’s a reason we want to pull the southern end of the coast a little closer to Lisbon, to include the new Aethos which is reinterpreting luxury with a surfer attitude that embodies the relaxed vibe of this part of Portugal – and which is also, oddly, a driver of its imminent boom. Immerso, the first five-star hotel in this region, has interiors that highlight brilliant local craftsmanship, giving the project a unique and very Portuguese personality. Chef Alexandre Silva (one Michelin star) leads the gastronomic offering, an ode to Atlantic cuisine.
Nazaré is better known thanks to its record waves (it’s official: Guinness Records gives the title of world’s largest surfed wave to one at Nazaré in 2020. It was 86 feet tall and German surfer Sebastian Steudtner rode it into the record books.) Nazaré itself manages, despite the fame of its swells, to remain a low-key fishing town, where some women still wear the traditional “seven skirts.” In 2021, an appealing new overnight option opened here, the family-friendly glamping at Ohai Nazaré.
Peniche, and especially the beach known as Supertubos, is also popular with the surfer crowd. Consolação, another beautiful beach here, is capped at one end by a 17th-century fort. The town is also a gateway to the Islas Berlengas, a half-hour by ferry. The islands form a protected nature reserve and only 550 visitors are allowed each day. Near the northern end of the coast, Aveiro has been nicknamed the Venice of Portugal and its colourful streets offer up a bounty of Instagram moments. We know the Costa da Prata will become a favourite of travellers as word gets out, just give it some time. David Moralejo
AlamyCanfranc, Huesca
It has been four years since we first reported that the spectacular Canfranc train station, inaugurated in 1928 and abandoned for decades, was going to become a luxury hotel. Despite the pandemic and other events creating some obstacles, the moment has arrived and the Canfranc Estación, a Royal Hideaway Hotel will open its doors at the beginning of 2023.
Located in Jacetania, a corner of Aragón along the French border and high in the Pyrenees, Canfranc’s main claim to fame historically has been the elaborate station which was constructed to facilitate and celebrate French and Spanish cooperation. Despite the grandeur of the inauguration, with King Alfonso XIII representing Spain alongside France’s president, traffic never lived up to the original forecasts and the station closed in 1970. Today the only train to use the station is a short-distance tourist one, the Canfranero, that travels the 117 miles from Zaragoza to Canfranc.
A century after construction started on the original station, the building will begin its new life as a five-star, 104-room hotel in 2023 with the design studio Ilmiodesign responsible for the interiors. The developers’ goal is to make the hotel a leader in tourism to the Aragonese portion of the Pyrenees, helping to attract both national and international interest.
The project preserves the historic building and will support the local economy with the creation of around 150 jobs. Guests arriving at the hotel will find reception in the historic station lobby while the first floor also houses a wellness area, a library, and the main restaurant, which includes two carriages that have been refurbished to become elegant dining cars.
Architect Michele Corbani and industrial designer Andrea Spada, the founders of Ilmiodesign, were inspired by the aesthetics of classic stations and the luxurious world of long-distance train travel in the early 20th century, but they also wanted to add a contemporary touch, creating warm and elegant spaces that blend with subtle Art Deco elements. Wood, brass, velvet, and a palette inspired by the 1920s coexist with various elements drawn from Aragonese popular culture and colour combinations inspired by the regional costumes of the region.
Don’t fear that it will no longer be possible to reach Canfranc by train, on the Canfranero. While the hotel was being restored, a new railway station and platforms were also constructed.
The Canfranc Estación hotel will put the Aragonese town on the radar of many travellers, but Canfranc will keep their interest thanks to the mesmerising beauty of the place, set amid the stunning peaks of the Pyrenees. While the station’s meticulous restoration allows it to begin its new life, when you hear the words “next stop, Canfranc” you’ll be adding some more lines to an ongoing story collectively written by thousands of passengers under a dizzying variety of circumstances with each leading to its own final destination. María Casbas
Alejandro Bergado / Diputación de BurgosLas Merindades, Burgos, Castilla and León
Alfoz de Bricia, Alfoz de Santa Gadea, Arija, Berberana, Cillaperlata, Espinosa de los Monteros, Frías, Junta de Traslaloma, Medina de Pomar are some of the 26 towns and cities that make up Las Merindades, a corner of Castilla and León that sits just to the south of the Basque region. The capital of Las Merindades is Villarcayo de Merindad de La Vieja, a town of some 4,000 residents that provides a good starting point for visiting the historic region.
Arguably the most magical settlement in the region is Puentedey, a small village with less than fifty residents. Built along the Nela river, the two sides of Puentedey are connected by a natural stone bridge. In 2022, the village’s beauty and its cultural importance was officially recognised when it was added to the list of the Most Beautiful Towns in Spain in 2022 – a club that includes 105 localities to date. Puentedey is not alone when it comes to gems in the area. Frias, located atop a mesa overlooking the Ebro river, would also have a good claim to the title of the prettiest village in Spain if not for being disqualified on a technicality. In 1435, King Juan II of Castille gave Frias, now home to only 270 people, the title of “city” making it the smallest city in Spain.
Those are only two of the many reasons to go to Las Merindades. There’s also the natural beauty of the region, thanks to its location in the foothills of the Cantabrian Range cooled by Atlantic breezes, a sense of history that is palpable in every town, castle, and even house, and surprises like the Ojo Guareña, a karst cave complex with almost 70 miles of galleries and passageways that have been used for shelter by humans for millennia. David Moralejo
Visit EnkarterriEnkarterri, Basque Region
Few people know about Enkarterri, a rich and surprising corner of the province of Vizcaya. (Enkarterri is its Basque name, in Spanish it is Encartaciones.) Those who discover it, however, tend to return. Only 35 minutes southwest of Bilbao, the sea and the mountains meet here in a land of green valleys that sits at the point where Burgos, Cantabria, and the Basque Country meet. The area also has an important “Indiano” heritage – that’s the word used in Spain to describe Spaniards who went to the Americas, or the Indies as it were, to make their fortunes. You can look inside some of the lavish Casas Indianas, mansions that are the results of 19th-century versions of the American dream. Another important reminder of Vizcaya’s economic history is apparent in the factories and plants that dot the landscape here. One used to be dedicated to the production of that essential Basque accessory, the beret. In operation until 1992, and then converted into a museum in 2007, La Enkartada offers a glimpse into northern Spain’s industrial past, and a lesson in how berets are made.
After exploring the factory, fill your stomach at Casa Garras, an institution going on its fifth decade thanks to its evergreen appeal. Carnivores will fall hard for the “beef days,” which take place during the winter months, when the restaurant serves an 11-course beef-themed tasting menu with delicious creations like a rump steak tartar with roasted marrow.
And there is more. Txacolí, the sparkling white wine produced in this part of Spain, always provides a good excuse to explore different wineries set amid the region’s beautifully wild landscapes including the biggest valley in the province (Karrantza Harana/Valle de Carranza, which includes some 49 settlements along its length). There are many options for hikers, bikers, spelunkers, as well as those looking for more low-impact activities like the Japanese tradition of “forest bathing.” On a completely different topic, the area is also home to the largest private collection of Rolls-Royces in Europe, located in a 14th-century castle. Cynthia Martín
Getty ImagesOviedo, Asturias
Oviedo, the elegant capital of Asturias, is known for the distinguished neoclassical architecture surrounding the city’s imposing cathedral in a flamboyant Gothic style and its remarkable pre-Romanesque buildings from the ninth century, with five works recognised by UNESCO: the Foncalada Fountains, the city walls, and three churches: Santa María del Naranco, San Miguel de Lillo, and San Julián de los Prados, known as Santullano. The city is also a top cultural and gastronomic destination.
Culture permeates life in this city thanks in large part to the Princess of Asturias Awards which are presented every year at the Campoamor Theater. In 2023, the ceremony will also celebrate the coming of age of the awards’ namesake, Leonor, the first-born daughter of the King and Queen of Spain and heir presumptive. The year ahead will bring some welcome additions to Oviedo. The Wamba Hotel from the Sensia Hotels group will open next to the cathedral while a much-anticipated AVE high-speed train from Madrid will enter service in May, making it possible to travel from the capital of Spain to the capital of Asturias in about three hours. This remarkable engineering project has taken years to complete and includes a 15-mile-long tunnel, one of the longest in Europe, which crosses the Cantabrian Range under the Puerto de Pajares mountain pass.
Meanwhile, Oviedo continues to embrace its gastronomic heritage that makes it one of the great epicentres of cuisine in the country. The city can boast of nine stars from Michelin, with Casa Marcial holding two of them. In total, 43 restaurants in the city are recommended by the guide. Some local favourites include Cocina Cabal, Ca'Suso, Salazogue, Casa Fermín, Mestura, and Gloria.
Director Woody Allen captured the essence of the city when he listed its positive qualities: “Oviedo is delicious, exotic, beautiful, clean, pleasant, peaceful, and kind to pedestrians. It’s as if it doesn't belong to this world, as if it could not possibly exist. Oviedo is like a fairytale.” David Moralejo
Javier EscorzaBajo (or Lower) Aragon
Spain constantly rewards travellers who want to venture off the beaten patch. Bajo, or Lower, Aragon is an outstanding example of this truth. Located roughly 90 minutes by car to the northwest of Valencia, Bajo Aragon is known for its processions of drummers during Holy Week while fans of motorsports head to MotorLand, but there’s more to entice travellers. Its landscape of chasms, rivers, and marshes has been shaped by the extreme climate and the passage of time, giving rise to the area’s unique flora and fauna. In addition, the generally clear skies and the low light pollution in this largely empty part of Spain adds up to remarkable stargazing opportunities.
It is not easy to find top-of-the-line hotels here, but there are some promising new ventures like the beautiful Torre del Marqués, while the Parador de Alcañiz has an incomparable hilltop setting next to a castle and convent. At its restaurant, La Concordia, you can discover some of the highlights of Aragonese cuisine, often overshadowed by other regions, like migas (a dish made with stale bread, soaked and then sauteed with other ingredients), lamb, and, of course, ham from Teruel.
The ambitious ongoing project of restoring the Convent of the Desert, an 18th-century convent that has been called the Escorial of Aragon given its enormous size, is also attracting interest while in Calanda, the birthplace of surrealist director Luis Buñuel, you can visit a museum, the Centro Buñuel Calanda, dedicated to his films and life. Pack comfortable shoes as you’ll likely be getting in a lot of steps as you visit cave paintings (Val del Charco del Agua Amarga), Iberian sites (on the Route of the Iberians of Bajo Aragón), climb mountains (following the Route of the Stony Giants), or gaze at the stars (on the Route of Astronomical Viewpoints). Other sites are just half an hour away, like Matarraña (another idyllic rural corner of Spain) and Campo de Belchite, the birthplace of painter Francisco Goya. Clara Laguna
Samuel Domingues / Alamy Stock PhotoIlha do Corvo, Azores, Portugal
We like the remote and the unknown and that’s why this year we want to send you to the smallest and most remote island of Portugal’s Azores. Quite likely on your trip to the archipelago, often described as the Atlantic’s Hawaii (though with far fewer tourists), you will hop among a few islands. If that if your plan, include Corvo on your list of ports of call.
There’s only one paved road on the island. Follow it to Caldeirão, the crater of the volcano that gave birth to the island. From its viewpoint you will be able to take in its enormous size, almost 1.5 miles in circumference and almost 1,000 feet deep. At the bottom of the crater are two lakes where, according to legend, all the islands of the Azores are reflected on their surfaces. Cows and wild horses graze freely in this natural wonder, for immediately apparent reasons, the most photographed place in Corvo.
A small airport and ferries that cross daily from the island of Flores connect Corvo with the rest of the world, as does free Wi-Fi throughout its (tiny) territory. Tiny but with its own city. Fewer than 500 inhabitants reside in Vila do Corvo in a handful of whitewashed houses with red roofs. You’ll find most locals are happy to chat with curious visitors. Operators here offer a myriad of bird-watching tours – the island it is considered one of the best areas in the world to spot a variety of species; its status as the westernmost of the Azores adds to its diversity with some vagrants from the Americas landing here. Other guides offer boat trips around the island, if the sea permits, with chances to swim alongside steep cliffs that plunge into the water. David Moralejo
Riu Hotels & ResortsMadrid
The capital of Spain continues its ascent to the top of lists of must-visit cities. Madrid has always extended a warm welcome, but there is a new energy and bustle as it assumes its place as a cosmopolitan, world capital. In the spring of 2022, we dedicated the cover of our 15th anniversary issue to the city, and now it is already time to revisit it and update the list of new and upcoming openings. The reasons to visit Madrid will only increase in 2023.
Both familiar and avant-garde; a cultural, gastronomic, and wellness centre, Madrid is a city of contrasts that never stops. Luxury hotel brands all want a presence here, and thus we have seen the recent openings of the Mandarin Oriental Ritz and the Rosewood Villa Magna. Only a little bit older, the Four Seasons Madrid, the Madrid EDITION, and Thompson Madrid have added to the wealth of choices. And, while it’s not a new property, the renovation of the Santo Mauro has elevated a favourite to a new level of luxury as it joins Starwood’s Luxury Collection.
Madrid, however, is far from done. The brand new UMusic Hotel, the first hotel from Universal Music, is located in the old Teatro Albéniz building, a very short walk from the Plaza Mayor. Coming up next are the Nobu Hotel Madrid, located halfway between the Puerta del Sol and the Paseo del Prado. The early-20th-century landmark Metropolis building is set to be reborn with a boutique hotel, restaurants, and shopping and just a little further up the Gran Via, Brach Madrid, designed by Philippe Starck, is another much-anticipated opening of 2023. There are still rumours that Fairmont will be joining the mix soon with a property near the Congress building, and another surprising addition is a hotel on Plaza de Canalejas from Pescaderías Coruñesas, known for its critically acclaimed restaurants and gourmet fish stores. This is their first foray into hotels. All of these projects near the Puerta del Sol are earning the area the nickname, Milla de Oro, or “golden mile.” If your budget doesn’t include staying at one of these new hotels, at least visit its restaurants, spas, and rooftops (the competition is fierce in that last category). Two somewhat different options nearby are Cool Rooms Palacio de Atocha (if you would like to stay in a 19th-century palace given a contemporary update) and the new https://www.thesocialhub.co/madrid/ (if you would like to stay in a co-working space, though one with incredible views and a full calendar of events.
When it comes to shopping, stops you may want to include are the enormous Zara (the world’s largest) on Plaza de España, the revolutionary WOW Concept store on Gran Vía, and Galeria Canalejas, where you’ll find 11 iconic international brands including Hermès, Cartier, and Louis Vuitton). Madrid’s culinary scene continues to dazzle – if you want to visit some of the new stars, plan on making reservations far in advance. Among the most coveted tables are Leña and Smoked Room by Dani García and Amós, at the Rosewood Villa Magna, led by three-Michelin-star chef Jesús Sánchez (for his Cenador de Amós, on the Cantabrian coast). Desde 1911 is a sophisticated option and the venerated Zuara is among the best Japanese restaurants in the city. At Zuma, Berria, Bar Trafalgar, and the cocktail lounge Isa (at the Four Seasons), you are guaranteed to eat and drink well. If you want to keep the party going into the morning, Lula Club and Medias Puri are two popular choices at the moment. Don’t be surprised if you decide you need one more weekend day, and night, with Madrid. This city, well, it can be a lot. Clara Laguna
Vladislav Zolotov / iStockMurcia, the city and region
Ask Spaniards of a certain age about the phrase, “Murcia, qué hermosa eres” (“Murcia, how beautiful you are”) and they will likely recall an odd television variety show from the late 1990s that promoted the region, and successfully implanted a slogan in viewers of several generations. Now many of those same people are discovering the truth of the motto.
The beauty of the province of Murcia can be experienced at the Regional Park of Calblanque, the Monte de las Ceniza, and Peña del Aguila, perhaps one of the most beautiful and wild stretches of Spain’s Mediterranean coastline. The waters at Cabo de Palos are a favourite of divers while the lush Sierra de Espuña is the province’s green heart surrounded by vast orchards. There is also, however, a unique beauty to the region’s capital, the city of Murcia, which is the destination we are recommending for 2023.
“No tienes ni idea de lo que estás perdiendo,” or “You have no idea what you are missing,” is Murcia’s more recent tagline, and it has its truth too. The region’s history is not as well-known as that of some of Spain’s other cities, even with a cathedral that is an almost perfect example of Spanish Baroque architecture and an episcopal palace in a Rococo style that reflects Murcia’s long-running connections with Noto, Lecce, and other cities in southern Italy.
The city was established by the emir of Cordoba in 825, and Moorish influences and evocative references remain visible, including at the lavish 19th-century Real Casino de Murcia, a glittering mix of architectural styles with an Arab patio, 20,000 sheets of gold leaf, and a neo-Baroque ballroom.
The 18th-century Puente de los Peligros connects the historic centre with the Carmen neighbourhood where you’ll find another one of the city’s Baroque wonders, Carmen’s parish church, which was originally part of a Carmelite convent. The Museo Salzillo focuses on the sculptural works of one of the most celebrated artists of the Spanish Baroque, Francisco Salzillo, whose works can be seen in many Murcian churches.
The Arab medieval period in the city’s history lives on in the city walls and the Aljufía irrigation system, which was one of the first such systems in Europe and is still used to this day to irrigate much of Murcia’s farmland and orchards. Murcia’s status as the source of much of Spain’s produce is evident when you sit down to eat. The perfect freshness of the ingredients helps to make the cuisine here even more exquisite and helped to justify the city’s turn as the Spanish Capital of Gastronomy in 2021. Don’t leave without trying a traditional meat pie, a dish made with the famous bomba rice grown in Calasparra, stewed and salted fishes, zarangollo (a dish made with eggs, onion, and squash), and a Murcian salad (made with tomatoes, tuna, eggs, and olives). David Moralejo
Félix LorenzoMallorca, Balearic Islands
If you thought that the economic upheaval and travel disruptions of the pandemic meant that the Balearic Islands were going to suddenly become a bargain, it didn’t work out that way. At least there is a silver lining. As the destination perfects its approach to luxury, you’ll get a mix of exclusivity, exquisite service, and sustainability that justifies the price.
Mallorca’s most anticipated upcoming openings are from the Four Seasons and the Virgin Group, at opposite ends of the island. The iconic Formentor in Pollença (in the north of the island), where celebrities including Grace Kelly and Prince Rainier stayed, will reopen as the Four Seasons Resort Mallorca at Formentor in 2024. The property, located on a 3,000-acre estate, aims to be the island’s most sustainable. The French interior design firm, Gilles & Boissier, who recently completed the renovation of the Mandarin Oriental Ritz, Madrid, were entrusted with the interiors of the Four Seasons as well.
Richard Branson’s much anticipated Son Bunyola hotel is now taking reservations for dates after August 1, 2023. The luxury hotel is located in the estate’s 16th-century finca, or manor house, and has 26 rooms. They join three existing villas – Sa Punta de S'Aguila, Sa Terra Rotja, and Son Balagueret – on an 810-acre property with grape vines and almond, citrus, and olive orchards. Son Net is another luxury property that will open (spring 2023) in this stunning part of the island, from the owners of the impeccable Finca Cortesin in Puigpunyent. Also nearby the Belmond La Residencia, in Deià, offers polished luxury in one of the most picturesque parts of the island while the new Kimpton Aysla Mallorca, just nine miles from Palma, is a contemporary retreat set amid landscaped grounds.
Sustainability is a focus of other recent openings on Mallorca as with Can Ferrereta, in Santanyí, from the creators of the award-winning Sant Francesc hotel in Palma; the boutique hotel Nivia Born, in Palma; the refurbished agroturismo property Finca Ca'n Beneït, in the Tramuntana mountains; and Es Racó d'Artà, which was recognised by Condé Nast Traveller in 2021 as the best health, sports, and wellness hotel. HM Palma Blanc, in Palma, marries a contemporary style with local Mallorcan materials and power from solar panels. The adults-only Vicenç de la Mar, in cala Sant Vicenç, was designed by architect Rafael Balaguer Prunés and carries the Design Hotels seal. Yurbann, a hotel group from Barcelona, also has an opening planned. You have to be quick to stay on top of Mallorca’s hotel scene! Clara Laguna
Getty ImagesCáceres, Extremadura
The 2021 inauguration of the Helga de Alvear Museum, with its outstanding contemporary art collection assembled by the museum’s namesake gallerist and philanthropist, marked a turning point for the city of Cáceres in Spain’s Extremadura region, alongside the Portuguese border. The new building, and the Premio Nacional de Arquitectura that Emilio Tuñón of Tuñón Arquitectos won for its design, announced that both the city and the broader province of Cáceres intended to compete for the attention of culturally curious travellers.
The hospitality and culinary offerings are already waiting and continuing to improve. The 17th-century Hotel Hospes Palacio de Arenales & Spa is located amid olive groves but only 10 minutes by car from the city centre. There, Atrio can boast two Michelin stars while the Torre de Sande, also from the Atrio team, is located in a 15th-century palace and is a star of Extremadura’s culinary scene which has long been an interesting region given its ties to neighbouring Portugal. Looking ahead, the Atrio team is also behind the renovation of the Casa Paredes-Saavedra, a Renaissance palace that is going to reopen as an exclusive 11-suite hotel facing the Parador del Palacio de los Marqueses de Torreorgaz. Another palace, the Palacio de Godoy from the 16th century, will reopen as a 72-room Hilton after having been closed for ten years.
The city of Cáceres is also a good gateway to explore the beautiful Jerte Valley and the area of Vera, part of Extremadura that is famous for its lush forest and many springs. The broader region of Extremadura has a total of six UNESCO sites that travellers will want to visit: the historic monuments of Cáceres, the archeological sites of Mérida, the Royal Monastery of Santa María de Guadalupe, the Monfragüe Biosphere and National Park, the Tajo Internacional Biosphere Reserve, and the Villuercas-Ibores-Jara World Geopark. While it has yet to get the UNESCO nod, the Monastery of San Jerónimo de Yuste has been recognised as part of Spain’s Patrimonio Nacional and deserves a place on travellers’ lists too.
In 2022, the landlocked Extremadura boasted an impressive eight Blue Flag beaches on its lakes, rivers, waterfalls, and streams. Baños de Montemayor and Alange have been welcoming spa-goers since the Romans built baths at both hot springs. Clara Laguna
Getty ImagesPals, Catalonia
Writer Josep Pla once wrote that the best view in the region of Empordà is from el Pedró, the restaurant that makes the best rice dishes in the town of Pals. Located in the historic centre, the view includes the Torre de las Hores, the Church of St. Peter, and the city walls that lead to a mirador that has now been renamed in honour of the author. “The contrasts that this site offers – the ocean, beach, and the Medes Islands; the eroded peaks of the Montgrí Massif, the deep greens of evergreen, cork, and pine forests with the geological formations of the Gavarres peaks and the flat farmland; and the botanical wonders along the banks of the Ter River – it all adds up to a rich bounty of great beauty,” the journalist wrote.
This medieval village in the Baix Empordà region, along Catalonia’s Costa Brava, offers travellers easy access to the most charming coves along this part of the Mediterranean, such as Aigua Xelida, and beaches such as the familiar and wide Pals, Gola del Ter, l'Illa Roja, and Aiguablava. The bravest swimmers can dive into the Vies Braves, a public network of marine and open water routes offering a wilder experience of the Mediterranean. Cycling through the rice fields of the area or finding a glamping site as a base for an active vacation are other options for visitors, who will also find an ideal setting for golf, a chance to enjoy the White Summer market and music festival, or simply visit organic vineyards. Visitors can also learn more about Catalonia’s rich Romanesque and medieval heritage following routes through the villages of Begur, Palau Sator, Peratallada, and Monells, among others.
At the Arkhe Hotel Boutique, a contemporary focus on health, wellness, and sustainability is paired with an intimate setting in the heart of historic Pals. Beyond exploring the region’s sites, staff can arrange everything from a “conscious nutrition” workshop to a meal amid the countryside’s wildflowers. Catalonia is known for the excellence of its produce and other ingredients as well as its celebrated chefs. Not far from Pals, El Celler de Can Roca has three Michelin stars; some critics and fans argue it is the best restaurant in the world. Bo.Tic, with two Michelin stars, is also among the region’s best restaurants along with Vicus and Pahissa del Mas. Make sure to have at least one dish made with the famous rice from Bassess d’en Coll before you leave. Clara Laguna
Félix LorenzoValle de Arce, Navarra
South of Roncesvalles, the Valle de Arce (or Artzibar, in Basque) is one of the best-known areas of Navarra and famous for the beech forest to its east, which is one of the largest and best preserved in Europe. This destination is full of natural and historical treasures but not people – there are barely 300 living in the village of Arce and smaller hamlets nearby. The buildings feel untouched by time and it is possible to easily access ravines, forests, and unforgettable postcard views.
A plus of the Navarra Pyrenees is that they are beautiful any time of the year, whether its peaks are dusted with snow or its alpine lakes are shimmering in the summer sun. Simply take a deep breath, walk in any direction, and be surprised by charming villages like Usoz, with its sweeping views, Azparren, or Gorráiz – with its historic houses and churches. Stop and listen to the murmur of the Urrobi and Irati rivers, which form two valleys in the region. This part of the Navarra Pyrenees is a paradise for mountain and hiking lovers, who will find routes for all levels and tastes.
The area’s Romanesque heritage can be traced in historical monuments such as the hermitage of Santa María de Arce, next to the Urrobi river, and the church of San Julián in Nagore, both from the 12th century. You can admire the 15th-century fortified palace of Ayanz and the Torre de Liberri, at least from a distance (both are located on private property and not open to public). You can get a closer look at the 13th-century Torre de Uriz, however, which has been converted into a stylish and intimate 12-room hotel.
Another charming option is the Agroturismo Mari Cruz, which combines a warm, family welcome with organic cuisine and a lot of magic. They say that amid its cabins, which provide retreats in the woods for those who want to slow down and discover another way of seeing the world, real live elves have been spotted. First, though, you need to take the time to truly listen and look. How’s that for a goal in 2023? Clara Laguna