Review: Hotel Per LA, California

Why book?  

For a touch of sophistication and history amidst the hustle and bustle of downtown Los Angeles.

Set the scene 

Occupying a former bank building from the 1920s, each of the 241 rooms and suites at Hotel Per LA feels like an upscale apartment in a city far away from sun-drenched Los Angeles and its skyscrapers. With an intimate check-in area and a sultry restaurant and bar set up in the bank’s old high-ceilinged lobby, it’s easy to imagine you’re in a different era entirely. That said, one of the hotel’s most modern touches is a mirrored tunnel, through which all guests must pass on their way to either the reception or the restaurant. It’s an obvious Instagram moment but whether or not you share it on social media, the tunnel gives the effect that you – yes, you – are important here too. 

The backstory 

Hotel Per LA is actually the second hotel to spring up inside the Giannini Building. First built in 1922 as the Bank of Italy with an ornate Neoclassical style, the building went through quite a few decades of neglect before it was rehabbed and transformed into the NoMad Los Angeles, a spin-off of the popular NoMad Hotel in New York. Yet when the pandemic shut down the world, the NoMad shut down too. Thankfully in September 2022, it was revived as Hotel Per LA, a name that pays credence to the building’s humble mission to serve as a bank for the people. Aside from creating a new entrance on Olive Street and re-envisioning the lobby and restaurant, much of the hotel keeps the old-world glamour of the NoMad days. 

The rooms 

The rooms at Hotel Per LA stay true to their historic setting, with a mix of antique and custom furniture laid out by designer Jacques Garcia. All beds have a dark brown, studded leather headboard with Bellino linens, while most rooms have free-standing tubs, Terrazzo-tiled showers, bar carts, small settees, and an array of knick-knacks like books and eclectic table lamps. Each room also has, on average, 14 photographs, all different sizes but artfully arranged and which juxtapose historic scenes from Italy and modern ones from Los Angeles. The hotel has several suites with very generous living spaces, which are ideal for longer stays. There are also a handful of patio rooms with doors that open out to a small, private courtyard, making these a clever option for a group of friends or a family gathering – simply open up your door and get together in the courtyard. But if you just need a simple room, be sure to book one with a city view to take in downtown’s skyline at sunset. 

Food and drink 

To soak up all the grandeur of the building, you must dine at the Per LA Ora restaurant for dinner under the restored blue and gold Italianate ceiling. Yet this is not a fussy space by any means. Despite the cavernous feeling of the lobby, the vibe is California comfortable with white cloth-covered chairs and close-together tables. Chef Courtney Van Dyke has blended her experience from high-end luxury hotels in New York and her hometown of Los Angeles to create a menu with Italian influence but done in a decidedly West Coast manner. Her take on bucatini carbonara, made with spam and topped with nori strips, is a revelation for anyone who loves both carbonara and musubi. Another stellar place to hang out at Hotel Per LA is Bar Clara, the rooftop pool and bar which is anchored by a fierce-looking gargoyle fireplace. Here guests can dine on both small and substantial plates during the day and sip clever cocktails at night. While the rooftop pool is a must on a hot day, you’ll want to cosy up next to the gargoyle when the sun goes down. For coffee and snacks throughout the morning, there’s Café Ora, just off the lobby, which also serves wine and gelato in the afternoons. 

The spa 

There is no spa, but the hotel does have a small 24-hour fitness centre with cardio machines and free weights. 

The neighbourhood/area 

Most visitors to downtown Los Angeles head to the LA Live complex with its sports arena, Grammy Museum, and entertainment district. Hotel Per LA is several blocks north of that, still within walking distance but not quite in the mix of it all. Which is a good thing. Instead, the hotel is closer to Pershing Square Park, the Grand Central Market (a historic food hall), and more cultural spots like The Broad Museum and the Walt Disney Concert Hall. Some of downtown’s best restaurants are also within walking distance of Hotel Per LA. But remember, this is downtown. The more popular LA landmarks like the beach, Hollywood and Beverly Hills aren’t exactly close by. 

The service 

Friendly and happy, especially at the restaurant and the bars. Hotel Per LA isn’t a white-glove luxury service, but staffers are eager to help with your luggage and give you some suggestions for the area or how to plan your day.

Eco effort 

Hotel Per LA does its part to be sustainable and eco-minded, as all businesses in California and Los Angeles are expected to do. 

Accessibility 

Yes, the hotel has ADA-compliant guest rooms and elevators. Guests can email frontdesk@hotelperla.com for more information.

Anything left to mention? 

There’s one very large artefact of the building’s history that guests will not want to miss – it’s the giant bank vault which now serves as the restrooms on the basement floor below the lobby. The door, with its massive spiked wheel, and hundreds of safety deposit boxes (all permanently shut) are still on display.