Review: First in: Kayaam House, Rekawa, Sri Lanka

Why book? 

Because it’s the first address under Reverie, the new brand from Resplendent Ceylon, whose show-stopping properties are Ceylon Tea Trails, Cape Weligama and Wild Coast Tented Lodge. And they are well on their way to triumphing again – this time in Rekawa, a delightfully undeveloped biodiverse spot near Tangalle, Sri Lanka, where you can rest and refuel at an exceptional level, away from the hum of tourists. 

Set the scene 

Kayaam House is a grown-up space enveloping the best of both worlds: dense jungle on one side, a deserted golden beach on the other. This bright-white house, tucked away down a bumpy dirt track, was built from scratch by a local architect and completed in 2022. But, in between the new, there’s still plenty of patina – an ancient temple door from Jaffna stands alongside elegant Dutch antiques, lines of traditional Portuguese carafes and planters chairs slotted into nooks. Splashes of Persian blue on the doors and windows and local abstract art add colour. The dining room is Geoffrey Bawa-inspired, blurring the inside and outside through airy open arches and calming grey pillars. Bulbous cane pendant lighting drips from the ceiling, illuminating the locally-crafted teak tables and chairs tripping out onto the terrace. A glorious glass-flat pool, flanked by palm trees and frangipanis, unfurls before you, running down the lawn to the private beach, where sun loungers await. Look up, and you’ll see a soar of sea eagles, Malabar Hornbills and Herons. 

The backstory 

Malik Fernando, the eldest son of the Fernando family of leading Sri Lankan tea company Dilmah, is the man behind Reverie. A self-declared “accidental hotelier”, he turned down a job at McKinsey in Boston to return to his homeland to the family business. Captivated by the charm of the historic tea planter bungalows, he decided to transform them into a hotel. Resplendent Ceylon was born. Tea Trails opened in 2005, followed by Cape Weligama, near Galle, in 2014, and Wild Coast Tented Lodge in Yala National Park in 2017. Impressively, the three properties are now the sole Sri Lankan hotels under Relais & Châteaux. Building upon the success, Malik launched a more intimate, simpler and affordable hotel brand. The result was Reverie. The first property is Kayaam House, built by the local Kayaam family, great friends of the Fernandos, going right back to Malik’s grandparents. It fitted right in both with Malik’s passion for family and also with Resplendent Ceylon’s DNA of creating a destination that doesn’t (yet) have tourism at a luxury level. 

The rooms 

There are eight rooms spread across the house. Each is stripped back but sophisticated, allowing the high-ceilinged space to speak for itself with super comfy wooden beds, teak furniture and earthy textures. There’s calming abstract art designed to keep you in the zen mood and Bang and Olufsen tech. The floor-to-ceiling windows slide open to reveal magnificent views of either the tropical jungle canopy or a flashing seascape. Ask for a room on the upper floor for the best vista and a bathtub on the terrace. Couples will love the Palm Suite with its outdoor jacuzzi. The Palm Residence, slightly set apart from the house, is the cream of the crop, with a private garden and jacuzzi.  

Food and drink 

There’s no menu or meal times. But there’s plenty of food (three courses at lunch, four at supper) – and it’s phenomenal. Kandyan chef Namal, fresh from the kitchens of Four Seasons Landaa Giraavaru, comes up with suggestions for every meal but will also cook what you fancy. The dishes lean heavily on ‘slow cooking’, so the ingredients have been seriously nurtured before ending up on your plate. There’s a brilliant breakfast – a nutty Bircher muesli made with local curd or a Sri Lankan feast with all the trimmings – served on the beach-facing terrace, with fisherman hauling their nets up in the distance. For lunch, try the mushroom cappuccino soup with Dilmah tea powder sprinkled on top, followed by duck breast with pomegranate and cranberry emulsion, before finishing with date pudding, accompanied by vanilla ice cream. But it’s the roast rack of lamb which will make you gasp – on a par with the best in Britain. The towering afternoon tea is also worthy of the Duchess of Bedford – particularly the devilled chicken rolls. 

The service 

Many of the staff come from other Resplendent Ceylon properties, which are renowned for their service. So the staff are good, very good. Even better, to encourage that home-away-from-home feel, they don’t hover, instead leaving you to your own devices unless called. Thoughtful little touches abound, including the crumbly homemade (very British) fudge awaiting you at bedtime. 

The neighbourhood 

Kayaam House is the first luxury hotel to make its home in low-key Rekawa. It’s quintessential rural Sri Lanka – water buffaloes musing, a white crane standing tall in the paddy fields, and a land monitor slowly lolling its way across the road. But the town of Tangalle – with its stunning beaches and buzz – is only 20 minutes away. 

Who comes here? 

The peaceful, sedate pace means it’s a slightly older crowd. The young ones gravitate towards Mirissa and other more party places. So, expect parents with adult children, anniversary-celebrating couples or those on a let’s-just-flop holiday. People tend to come for four or five days rather than just stop by. The sea here is also fairly boisterous, so it’s better for more experienced swimmers rather than little munchkins dipping their toes in. That said, the hotel has sharp-eyed lifeguards in place. 

For families 

The Palm Residence with Jacuzzi is brilliant for families. Parents can grab the kingsize bedroom while there’s a large loft for up to four children. Downtime can be spent in the spacious living room or the jacuzzi in the private garden. Activities at Kayaam House are better for older children with the likes of bicycling and kayaking.   

Eco effort 

Resplendent Ceylon has an impressive track record in sustainable initiatives. Reverie is no different. Supporting the local community is a big thing. Priority is given to local hiring, and the hotel experiences are community-focused. Kayaam House also purchases buffalo milk from the village to produce homemade mozzarella and grow their own fruit and veg.  

Accessibility for those with mobility impairments 

There is a ramp at the entrance. The two Ocean Rooms on the ground floor are accessible (although there are no accessibility fixtures in the bathrooms). There is an elevator for reaching the rooms and suites upstairs. The top floor of the spa is also accessible. 

Anything else to mention 

There is a lovely spa where Ariati offers deeply soothing Balinese massages or stretch out in the breezy yoga shala in the garden, overlooking the beach. The bicycle tour through the local villages is fascinating – see rice being prepared and curd being made, and even visit the crab farm of culinary hotspot The Ministry of Crab. The sunrise kayak on mangrove-fringed Rekawa Lagoon is a must, where you can spot pelicans, their beaks actually as big as in Roald Dahl’s The Giraffe, The Pelly and Me. For more fun on the water, there’s snorkelling for parrot fish, starfish and turtles in the lagoon, surfing on nearby Blue Beach and diving for tropical fish and shipwrecks in Tangalle. Attempting the 533 steps of the nearby ancient rock temple of Muliragala is a great challenge too. 

Is it worth it? 

Although the price is not exactly chump change, it does include first-rate food, wellness treatments and faultless service. 

SriLankan Airlines offers daily direct flights from London to Colombo. srilankan.com