Review: Shiguchi, Niseko

Why book? 

Niseko – aka the Aspen of Japan – is increasingly synonymous with glitzy hotels and Michelin-sprinkled restaurants in addition to its dreamily copious powder snow. Shiguchi, however, embodies a different side to this booming resort town on Japan’s northernmost island Hokkaido. This escapist retreat, housed in a scattering of wooden farmhouses, clings to the edge of an empty forested valley. It offers a purist, near-spiritual dose of nature year-round – from green bursts of summer to the stillness of winter snowscapes – smoothly balanced by art and creative cuisine.

Set the scene

A solitary moss green noren curtain, fluttering in a powdery snowstorm, sets a serene tone upon my winter arrival. It’s only 15 minutes by car from the buzz of Niseko’s Hirafu district, yet the change in atmosphere is dramatic. A maze of white pathways cut into walls of snow lead to five traditional wooden farmhouses known as kominka – home to two galleries, a restaurant, a shop, and five art-filled villas. Somoza is its communal heartbeat. Here, the wooden interior is warm and modern, with minimalist landscape photography – by English owner Shouya Grigg, an artist and decades-long Niseko resident – plus contemporary paintings, flower arrangements, scented candles, shelves of ceramics, and a wood-burning stove. Upstairs is a tatami mat tea ceremony space wrapped in decorative steel screens where, in a play of light and shadows, a lady in a dusty pink kimono whisks matcha. A lower-level gallery houses an expansive collection of Hokkaido and indigenous Ainu artworks; while a valley-facing restaurant with walls of glass serves contemporary cuisine. 

The backstory

In 2015, Grigg came up with the ambitious idea of relocating a 160-year-old kominka from Tochigi Prefecture to Niseko. It was painstakingly dismantled, transported, reassembled, and renovated – before debuting as Somoza several years later. It sowed the seed for a hotel project, with four more kominka transported – resulting in Shiguchi’s 2022 opening. Its essence is rooted in its name: Shiguchi is a traditional Japanese carpentry technique that involves the nail-free connection of beams. The goal is to create space for humans to connect with nature, art, architecture – and ultimately, says Grigg, “themselves.” It’s what Grigg calls part two of a trilogy; the first was Zaborin, a minimalist escape just down the road, which he co-founded (he’s no longer involved today). And part three? An ambitious wellness project on another Niseko site (watch this space). 

The rooms

Five spacious villas are named after the universal elements of Chi (fire), Sui (water), Ka (fire), Fu (wind), and Ku (void). Spanning two or three levels, they have up to three bedrooms, with interiors fusing impressive kominka timberwork with antique furniture, high-tech kitchens, ceramics, and art (in my room, Chi, this ranged from a framed Henry Moore to Grigg’s monochrome forest photography on washi paper screens). Best of all are terrace bathtubs crafted from rocks or hinoki cypress wood, filled with hot spring onsen water – plus haiku-inspiring valley views. The cosy factor is boosted by underfloor heating, soft Babaghuri cotton pyjamas, and wood-burning stoves.

Food and drink

Nature and creativity also underpin the food. Somoza’s restaurant meanders through vintage timberwork, with indigo textiles, modern ceramics, and valley views. Food is colourful, local, and seasonal, using Hokkaido ingredients with a French edge, helmed by chef Tatsuya Ozeki. Wintertime dinner includes perfectly pink venison, with wild udo Ainu dumplings, truffle sauce, and fried tuna base. Breakfast is peaceful and restorative – freshly-baked walnut toast with jam and fermented cream, eggs benedict and a deliciously earthy minestrone soup.

The spa

A two-room spa will open next winter, with onsen baths, valley views, and organic oils using local flowers and herbs for treatments inspired by ancient healing practices. Private massages, yoga, and meditation sessions currently take place in the tatami mat space of each villa.

The area 

Despite being a quick car hop from Niseko’s social scene and ski slopes, Shiguchi feels like the middle of nowhere, with its forests, mountains, and valleys. It’s not just about winter, the retreat is a year-round destination – from the fresh green burst of summer to the foraged treats of autumn.

The service 

Staff are friendly, helpful, and refreshingly relaxed, helping with bespoke activities upon request – from curating art tours to sake tastings as well as securing reservations at Niseko’s famed restaurants.

For families 

Only children above the age of ten can stay – which goes some way to explain the peaceful, grown-up atmosphere. 

Eco effort 

The entire structures are sustainable, with the re-using of old timbers as well as materials such as clay and straw walls. Naturally, flowing onsen water is also used for underfloor heating.

Accessibility 

Currently no – although plans are underway to incorporate this.

Anything left to mention? 

Car hire is recommended, given the remote location.