Review: Sofitel Legend Casco Viejo, Panama City

Why book?

This chicly historic French-inspired cultural gem in Panama City’s old quarter has all the modern fixings, from the waterfront infinity pool and immersive spa program to spacious personal terraces overlooking the glittering downtown skyline across the bay.

Set the scene

Casco Viejo is the historic and walkable heart of Panama City’s nightlife scene for visitors and tourists alike, so for those in the know it may come as no surprise that Sofitel’s sixth Legend property in the world came to town here in early 2023. The brand has garnered a loyal following by preserving famed addresses around the world, transforming them into luxe cultural getaways true to the history of the place. This one, a former social club, fuses the country’s Spanish- and French-colonial pasts (France tried and failed to build the Panama Canal here before its US completion) to a truly show-stopping and high-design renovation that stays true to the building’s original French architecture.

Attracting A-list celebrities, jet setters, and uber-stylish locals in the first weeks open, its shiniest features include a pattern-tile lobby as well as Mayda Lobby Bar and Plaza, which is adorned with curated art (not to mention a massive, colourful fresco map of the Panama Canal greeting you at the entrance), a bright courtyard of lush palms and burbling fountains as Instagram-worthy as the colourful cocktails being served, and high-end restaurant Caleta that spills into the adjacent square for Mediterranean-led al fresco dining in sight of the downtown cityscape. Well-heeled business types and kaftan-clad spa-goers alike can be found posted up in all of those spaces day and night, plus there’s a spacious infinity pool deck below the central courtyard (or Plaza) backdropped by the turquoise ocean. As an added bonus, street-level patisserie Vera Cafe is well worth fueling all your old-quarter explorations; don’t miss the tea and local coffee infusions, particularly the sinus-clearing ginger latte.

The backstory

The high-ceilinged building that houses the shiny-new property was once the Union Club of Panama, a sprawling social hub that dates back to 1908 (and played host to such visitors as Queen Elizabeth II on her state visit in 1953) and has been restored beyond its former glory after a to-the-studs renovation of the Spanish-colonial manse. It was reinvigorated after laying abandoned for four decades, and French brand Sofitel stayed true to its own roots by playing up the joie de vivre. Think wrought-iron balconies with double doors, mahogany wood panelling, ethereal glass chandeliers, greenery-clad common areas flanked with white-tile walls, mixed-and-matched plush banquettes and low-slung wicker seats, red leather bistro booths, and clawfoot tubs ready to be prepared by your personal butler. 

The rooms

Rooms range from 375-square-foot superior level options to spacious suites with large sitting balconies – and 87 per cent of rooms have an ocean view. All floors except the bottom level have attached balconies (although some are Juliet-style) and are well worth the upgrade for enjoying in-room breakfasts with an incredible view of the cityscape and adjacent old town. The “Magnifique” grade rooms with sitting-area balconies are an ideal cross between the rooms and suites for a clawfoot tub and separate shower, double sinks, and a spacious indoor living space with a fully stocked mini-bar of local snacks and coffee, imported wines, and a French press. Warm mahogany floors, marble countertops and tables, deep velvet couches and armchairs, colourful art and modern photographs part of the hotel’s $2 million collection, as well as archive photos of the property create the feeling that you’ve fallen through a rabbit hole and into a glamorous Parisian mansion.

Food and drink

This Legend property’s dining, like almost everything else at the hotel, applies a luxurious French style to distinctly Panamanian elements – steak tartar and Mediterranean-style ceviches elevate local ingredients with an eye for simplicity. Every element, from a fresh-squeezed juice bar to the impeccable pastry program, spotlight the region’s rainbow of ingredients like fruit, local cacao, and Latin American coffee. Dining is helmed by chef Lorenzo Di Gravio, formerly of Michelin-starred Assaje restaurant in Rome; his all-day restaurant Caleta is bringing a new level of dining to the walkable neighbourhood – which is known for a handful of standout dining destinations that includes Latin America's 50 Best restaurant Fonda Lo Que Hay’s incredible seafood plates and sharable portions of chicharron. 

The pastries – from croissants in the lobby cafe to the fine-dining dessert menu – are absolute works of art, studded with tropical flavours like tart passionfruit and delicate hibiscus; the program is led by Colombian chef John Moreno. In-room dining can bring the luxuries of the Caleta kitchen to your room’s personal balcony, and the garden-nestled courtyard bar is the perfect place to enjoy an inventive cocktail (try the bar’s namesake cucumber-gin concoction “Mayda Fresh”) or wake up with the “Detox” green juice that’s the perfect blend of celery, pineapple, and subtle spice. A rooftop dining option overlooking the central courtyard, Ammi Skybar, is also in the final phases of opening.

The spa

The semi-subterranean Sofitel Spa onsite is a truly immersive wellness experience, with a deep treatment menu that focuses on global themes like hot stone and Thai traditions (don’t be surprised if the therapist hops up on the table to anchor you in some hamstring extensions and similar yoga-like techniques). It also utilises ancient culture-spanning rituals like the tea ceremony, which is offered after your treatment in a calming relaxation room. 

Mindfulness techniques like sound bowls and reverberating gongs are interspersed to help centre you throughout massage experiences. Cosmetic options like facials and body scrubs are generously integrated into multi-format options that dominate the spa menu – like the Mineral Miracle, a hot-stone massage and facial experience with stretching and sound-bath elements – for very well-rounded relaxation experiences. A la carte offerings like individual facials, manicures and pedicures, and scrubs and body wraps are on offer, too. There’s also a spacious gym onsite complete with treadmills, weight machines, and bikes for your fitness routine.

The neighbourhood/area

Casco Viejo, or the Old Quarter, is a safe and highly walkable nightlife area that’s just as worthwhile for daytime adventures; French cafes, centuries-old cathedrals and cultural ruins, picturesque squares, and a waterfront stretch of walking paths from French Square all attract morning and sunset visitors well before the evening scene takes over. The cobblestoned waterfront area home to the Sofitel Legend, however, maintains a sense of quiet – so you can pick and choose when to engage in the revelry and when to unwind. The far-off view of the downtown skyline and miles of the ocean doesn’t hurt, either. 

To experience Panamanian cuisine within walking distance from the hotel be sure to visit the nearby Mercado de Mariscos (seafood market) for an early lunch of bright ceviche and cold cerveza – and by night don’t miss delectable and local-loved dining options Kaandela and Casablanca’s Panamanian classics. Also, a stone’s throw away is the National Theater of Panama, which hosts folklore performances where you can see traditional Panamanian costumes, singing, and dancing for an evening—and if you don’t make it to a show, the hotel hosts a pair of costumed folk dancers nightly in the courtyard to introduce guests to the colourful tradition of Panamanian song and dance.

The service

The Legend Butler service here manages to feel understated, and yet perfectly fussy (every morning a WhatsApp text checks in on any needs for the day) at the same time. Your personal attendant will take care of anything from unpacking and ironing your clothes to drawing you a hot bubble bath of essential oils, botanicals, and bath salts. Requests can be handled in your room with care while you’re out enjoying the city (although should be requested ahead in case of busy times when the staff might be overloaded with requests).

Front-of-house is equally as buttoned-up as the behind-the-scenes service; warm concierge greets you at the entrance, and speedy housekeeping services seem to instinctively know when to swoop in for their twice-daily visits (both cleaning and turn-down) in order to remain unseen. An experienced concierge at the property can also arrange anything you might have forgotten to set up before your arrival, like a helicopter sightseeing tour of the city, a day trip to San Blas Island, or a private yacht sailing on the hotel’s White Lotus worthy vessel – complete with a chef-cooked lunch and dolphin sightings (if you’re lucky). 

For families

Suites and a 2,000-square-foot penthouse are perfectly spacious for families and groups – although the pool, spa, and bar vibes lean a bit more adults-only.

Eco effort

Biodegradable everything (from the bamboo toothbrushes to the reusable coffee cups and in-room coffee packets next to the French press) and pump-style Dyptique shower toiletries make luxury feel truly sustainable – there’s nary a single-use plastic in sight.

Accessibility

Despite being a historic property there are plenty of ramps and elevators for easy access.

Anything left to mention?

Staying true to its history with French flair and uplifting design, the Sofitel Legend Casco Viejo is a dazzling way to stay in Panama City’s most fabulous waterfront pocket – perfect for a relaxing cultural getaway you won’t forget.