Review: The Royal Hotel, Canada

Why book?

Since it first opened its doors as a luxurious railway hotel in the late 19th century, The Royal Hotel has claimed an illustrious place on Picton’s Main Street – and in the hearts of locals, most of whom have a story about the building’s run-down dive bar days. After the Sorbara family saved the property from demolition and lovingly restored it from the studs, The Royal is back and better than ever, offering casual luxury that honours both Prince Edward County’s roots and current status as a wine tourism hot spot.

Set the scene

Even on a wet, grey afternoon, the lobby of the newly reopened Royal Hotel is buzzing, full of locals meeting by the sleek curved fireplace and moms chatting over coffee at The Counter Bar. Once the centre of County life, it didn’t take The Royal long to reclaim its destiny as the County’s most notable address. Every detail of the property’s restoration has been carefully considered, from the oversized windows that are perfect replicas of those that looked out onto Main Street more than a century ago to the mortar used to bind the entryway, made of the same composition as the original.

But the new Royal is hardly mired in nostalgia. From contemporary works throughout the property by locally based multimedia artist and photographer Christine Flynn to a weekly winemaker series – hosted around a vintage-inspired cupboard that swings open to transform the back corner of the lobby into a bar – Prince Edward County’s modern sophistication and creativity feature heavily in the hotel’s exciting reinvention.  

The backstory

When former Ontario finance minister Greg Sorbara purchased a family farm in rural Prince Edward County nearly 20 years ago, he never imagined how far his new roots would spread. After learning the crumbling structure that was once The Royal was slated for demolition in 2014, he snapped it up and made restoring the former gem a family endeavour.

Led by Sorbara's son-in-law Sol Korngold, who is now The Royal’s GM, the restoration was singular in its execution, from the hand-plastered walls and spot-on lighting (energetic zig-zag lighting ushers guests to Chef Albert Ponzo’s dining room, at the rear of the ground floor, while floor-level sconces bathe guestroom hallways in warm, sexy light) to modern details that pay homage to the hotel’s Victorian days.

The rooms

All 33 guest rooms at The Royal are named for local apple varieties, honouring the County’s agricultural heritage. The rooms echo the modern play on Victorian design seen in the lobby – all highly touchable textiles and fresh takes on classic details, such as custom floor-to-ceiling tartan-inspired tile mosaics and rippling doily-like edging around bathroom counters. While the lines are sleek, the vibe is sumptuous: rooms feature plush robes and bedding, and many have fireplaces that turn on with the flick of a button and deep soaker tubs located right in the bedroom (bathrooms have walk-in rainfall showers) – as enticing as County’s wine and food trails and provincial parks may be, it’s very tempting to just stay in.

Food and drink As you might expect from a hotel that credits its new existence to its owners’ farm, the food at The Royal is rooted heavily in local ingredients. Executive chef Albert Ponzo – who formerly helmed the kitchen at Toronto’s iconic Le Select bistro and was drawn to the County specifically because of the Sorbaras’ vision and the appeal of rural life – cooks deeply satisfying and decidedly unfussy food rooted in an Italian approach: think house-made pasta, such as tiny, perfect cappeletti stuffed with squash, sourdough bread and pizzas, and simple salads that allow the best of the season to shine. Much comes from the Sorbara family’s Edwin County Farms and other local purveyors, including honey from Ponzo’s own farm (also sold in the lobby gift shop). The Counter Bar in the lobby also features grab-and-go pastries, coffee, snacks, and curated groceries, and in warmer months bring al fresco dining and drinks on the back terrace.

The neighbourhood/area

Just the promise of The Royal’s reopening has reinvigorated the eastern end of Picton’s main street: the last few years have seen the opening of a new tapas bar, craft cocktail room, and a second location of the beloved Slickers County Ice Cream (try the campfire flavour), as well as shops such as the Ye11ow Studio pottery shop (you’ll find artisan Dawn Middleton’s works in The Royal’s dining room), all within a block. Sandbanks Provincial Park and popular wineries such as Closson Chase and Hinterland – known for their crisp bubbles made by the Charmat method – are within a 25-minute drive.

The service

Don’t be fooled by the staff’s laid-back approach – employees are informed and empowered to attend to every detail, and highly attuned to guest needs. There’s no doubt working conditions have something to do with it: the Sorbaras purchased adjacent housing to avoid the staffing challenges associated with being a seasonal destination and organised tours for employees of every beach and winery in the region to make everyone who works at the hotel a local expert. That means that from the front desk staff to room service delivery, every employee has a favourite recommendation they’re eager to share. 

For families

While rooms in the main building are better-suited to couples, suites in The Royal Annex are perfect for family stays. Previously horse stables, the Annex too has been thoughtfully renovated, featuring a Scandinavian-inspired design with oversized pet-friendly suites that offer sofa beds, kitchenettes, and dining tables.

Eco effort

Reusable bottles (there’s a filtered water and ice station on every floor) and refillable toiletries in every room. 

Accessibility

Three rooms (one Cortland and two Russet) meet accessibility standards, and the hotel’s dining room and public spaces are accessible. 

Anything left to mention?

While the ultra-private, uber-chic guests-only pool deck makes The Royal the place to book during Prince Edward County’s busy summer season, don’t sleep on an off-season stay. Many rooms have fireplaces and standalone soaker tubs; add in Chef Ponzo’s hearty cooking – ribollita with cassoulet beans and kale salad with sweet potato, parsnip, and celeriac – and you’ve got the makings of a cosy luxe getaway any time of year.