La Cova Fumada
Talking about the Bar del Pla leads naturally to La Cova Fumada which maintains even more of its hidden-find character, not least because it doesn’t even have a sign out front. First opened in 1944, the bar is run today by the brothers Magi and Josep María Solé, along with their mother, Palmira, at the stove. This is a true ‘market bar’, and it is open only from 9am to 3pm, Monday to Friday, and closes even earlier, at 1pm, on Saturdays. While the bar is closed on Sundays, it does reopen in the evening, on Thursdays and Fridays, for an extra two hours, from 6pm to 8pm. Those hours can present a challenge for many Spaniards, who are generally inclined to eat later, but it is a good option for breakfast or an aperitif. Dishes to order include the fresh fish, including their legendary sardines, squid, and octopus, all served with beans, butifarras (Catalan sausages), and their famous bombas (potato croquettes). They don’t take reservations, so you’ll have to queue up. David Moralejo
Address: Carrer del Baluard, 56, 08003 Barcelona, Spain
Website: lacovafumada.com
Direkte Boquería
A mini gastro-kiosk in the galleries by the Boquería market, this is a hot ticket thanks to Arnau Muñío (ex-head chef at Comerç 24) and his focused Hispano-Asian fusion cooking.
Address: Carrer de les Cabres, 13, 08001 Barcelona, Spain
Website: direkte.cat
Casa Amàlia
By the Mercat de la Concepció, one of the city’s most exquisite food markets, Casa Amàlia ran for 70 years under the Llavina family. New owners overhauled the decor and the menus but kept the symbiotic relationship, serving the city’s best jamón and béchamel canelons and paella marinera.
Address: Passatge del Mercat, 14, 08009 Barcelona, Spain
Website: casaamalia.com